STAGE 31 - PALAS DE REI TO ARZÚA

68.3km to Santiago de Compostela

28.4km to Palas de Rei

If you walk to Arzúa, today is a long day with many small but tiring climbs and descents. The sort that slowly saps energy! That said, aside from a short stretch into Melide and then Arzúa, where you are walking through the outskirts, most of the day is spent in the countryside.

⬇︎3.4km (64.9km) San Xulián do Camiño 🍽️ 🛏️

The town's parish church, consecrated to St. Julian, is a Romanesque structure dating back to the 12th century. This dedication reflects a longstanding tradition of reverence for a saint whose historical identity remains uncertain. According to the legend, Julian was a noble soldier who inadvertently killed his parents. In penance, he and his wife Adela purportedly provided shelter to pilgrims on the road to Santiago until an angel revealed divine absolution to him.

• Albergue O Abrigadoiro, San Xulián do Camiño, +34 982 374 117

⬇︎0.9km (64.0km)Ponte Campańa 🍽️ 🛏️

• Albergue Casa Domingo, Ponte Campaña, +34 982 16 32 26, http://www.alberguecasadomingo.com

⬇︎1.0km (63.0km) Casanova 🍽️ 🛏️

• Albergue de Peregrinos de Casanova, +34 982 173 483

⬇︎2.9km (60.1km) Coto 🍽️ 🛏️

• Hotel Rural Casa de los Somoza, O Coto, S/N, 15800, +34 623 523 211 https://casadelossomoza.com/
• Los Dos Alemanes, O Coto Melide, +34 981 507 337
• Pensión Baires, O Coto, s/n, +34 645 118 958

⬇︎4.3km (55.8km) Furelos 🍽️ 🛏️

The village of Furelos is known for its 13th-century medieval bridge, the "Puente de Furelos," which crosses the Furelos River.

• Pensión Rural A Casa do Lado, Furelos, s/n, +34 658 094 994
• Pensión Rural Casa Adro, C. Ponticela, s/n, +34 616 678 206, http://casaadro.com
• Casa Saleta, Rúa Furelos, 29, +34 607 698 440
• Casa Carlán, Furelos, +34 696 194 882

⬇︎1.5km (54.3km) Melide 🍽️ 🛏️ 🛒➕🚌 🏧

The Camino del Norte and Primitivo join the Camino Francés in Melide, so the numbers increase again. Melide is a busy town with plenty of shops, restaurants, bars, and accommodations, and it would be more than tempting to spend a night here. The town has an excellent website for visitors: https://www.turismomelide.com/index.php/en/

However, no visit to Melide would be complete without trying the pulpo or octopus. I was sceptical and unsure, but it was delicious. If you don't try it here, try it somewhere during your time in Galicia! 

"Pulpo de Galicia," for which Melide is known, consists of octopus cooked in a traditional Galician style. The preparation typically involves boiling the octopus until tender, then slicing it into small pieces and serving it on a wooden plate or board. It is a simple dish that focuses on the octopus's natural flavours. It is often seasoned with olive oil, coarse sea salt, and paprika and served with bread or boiled potatoes.

• Albergue de Peregrinos de Melide, C. San Antonio, +34 660 396 822
• Albergue O Cruceiro, Ronda de A Coruña, 2, +34 616 764 896, http://www.albergueocruceiro.es
• Albergue Arraigos, C. Cantón de San Roque, 9 +34 646 343 370, http://www.alberguearraigos.com
• Pensión Berenguela, C. Cantón San Roque, 2, +34 981 505 417
• Pensión Pousada Chiquitín, Rúa San Antonio, 18, +34 981 815 333, http://chiquitinmelide.es
• Albergue O Apalpador, C. San Antonio, 23, +34 981 506 266, http://www.albergueoapalpador.com
• Albergue Vilela, C. San Antonio, 2, +34 616 011 375
• Albergue Pereiro, C. Progreso, 43, +34 981 506 314, http://www.alberguepereiro.com
• Albergue Melide, Av. de Lugo, 92, +34 981 507 491, http://www.alberguemelide.com
• Albergue San Anton, C. San Antonio, 6,+34 981 50 64 27, http://www.alberguesananton.com
• Albergue Alfonso II El Casto, Av. de Toques y Friol, 52-54, +34 981 506 454
• Albergue Montoto, Rúa Codeseira, 31, +34 981 507 337, http://www.alberguemontoto.com
• Pensión Orois, C. Alexandre Boveda, 13, +34 981 507 097
• Pensión El Molino, C. Rosalía de Castro, 23, +34 981 506 048
• O Tobo do Lobo, C. Luis Seoane, 8, +34 981 507 773, http://otobodolobo.com
• A Lúa do Camiño, Rúa Circunvalación Campo Feira, 15, +34 620 958 331, http://www.aluadocamino.com
• Hotel Sony, Ctra. de Santiago, s/n, +34 981 505 473, http://www.restaurantesony.com
• Hotel Carlos 96, Av. de Lugo, 119, +34 981 507 633, http://www.hc96.com
• Hotel Xaneiro, Av. de La Habana, 43, +34 981 506 140, http://www.hotelxaneiro.com
• Pensión Pereiro, Calle Progreso 43,+34 981 50 63 14
• Albergue O Candil, Rúa Principal 21, +34 639 503 550, http://www.ocandil.gal

⬇︎5.8km (48.5km) Boente 🍽️ 🛏️ 🚌

This is where you start to see a succession of short but steep climbs and descents.

• Albergue Fuente Saleta, Boente, +34 981 501 853
• Albergue-Pensión Boente,Boente, +34 981 501 974, http://albergueboente.com
• Albergue El Aleman, Lugar Boente Arriba, 49, A Peroxa, +34 981 501 984, http://www.albergueelaleman.com

⬇︎2.8km (45.7km) Castañeda 🍽️ 🛏️

• Albergue Santiago, Castañeda, +34 981 501 711
• Apartamentos La Calleja, Fraga Alta, +34 605 787 382, http://www.lacalleja.com

⬇︎2.8km (42.9km) Ribadiso da Baixo 🍽️ 🛏️

After the rigours of the day, this is a welcoming spot and would make a quieter alternative to Arzua, which is busy and has an unattractive main road running through it. If the weather allows you can bathe in the river here or soothe tired feet. There is one more hill now, which lasts to Arzua. 

• Albergue de peregrinos de Ribadixo da Baixo, +34 660 396 823
• Albergue Los Caminantes, Ribadixo, +34 647 020 600 http://www.albergueloscaminantes.com/rooms/ribadiso/
• Pensión Ribadiso, Ribadixo, 22, +34 981 500 703, http://pensionribadiso.com 

⬇︎0.9km (42.0km) Ribadiso da Carretera 🍽️ 🛏️

Be VERY careful crossing the main road here. Lorries rumble by at quite some speed, and there is a bend. 

• Albergue Milpés, Ribadixo, 7, +34 981 500 425, http://alberguemilpes.com
• Albergue Mirador de Ribadiso, Ribadiso, 8, +34 722 297 498

The Camino continues uphill and briefly follows a side road before rejoining the pavement adjoining the main for the slightly tiresome remaining walk into Arzúa.

⬇︎2.1km (39.9km) Arzúa 🍽️ 🛏️ ➕🚌 🏧