STAGE 26 - VILLAFRANCA del bierzo TO O CEBREIRO

O CEBREIRO

O Cebreiro is one of the more iconic stops on the Camino de Santiago. It marks the entry point into Galicia for pilgrims coming from the east, and its distinctive thatched-roof pallozas (traditional round stone houses) add to its allure. These structures have been part of Galician rural architecture for centuries and are a significant cultural heritage of the region.

The village has a rich history dating back to pre-Roman times. The Celtic tribe of the Gallaeci inhabited it, and remnants of their settlements can still be seen in the surrounding area. O Cebreiro is also known for the Miracle of O Cebreiro, a legendary event in which a local priest witnessed the bread and wine of the Eucharist transform into the body and blood of Christ.

O Cebreiro is home to several historic landmarks, including the Church of Santa María la Real, which dates back to the 9th century and features pre-Romanesque and Romanesque elements. The church houses a revered relic, the Holy Grail of O Cebreiro, believed by many to be the chalice used in the Miracle of O Cebreiro.

The Miracle of O Cebreiro

The miracle occurred in the 14th century and is associated with the local parish church of Santa María la Real.

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The story unfolds as a Benedictine priest, Don Gaiferos, doubtful of the Real Presence of Christ in the Eucharist, celebrates Mass.

Despite the inclement weather, a humble farmer named Juan Santín from Barxamaior bravely attends, demonstrating his unwavering faith and devotion.

During the Mass celebration, after the priest utters the words of consecration, a miraculous transformation occurs: the Host miraculously changes into flesh, and the wine into blood, which spills onto the corporal (square white linen cloth).

For nearly two centuries, the miraculous Host remained on the paten (the plate) until Queen Isabella I of Castile learned of the miracle while on a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Impressed by the account, she commissioned a precious crystal shrine to house the miraculous Host, the chalice, and the paten. This shrine can still be admired in the church of O'Cebreiro today.

To commemorate the miracle, processions are held annually on the feast days of Corpus Christi, August 15th and September 8th, during which the relics are paraded alongside the Madonna.

Various historical sources document the Miracle of O'Cebreiro, including papal bulls from Pope Innocent VIII and Pope Alexander VI and accounts by Father Yepes.

Memorial to Father Elías Valiña Sampedro

In a small garden immediately to the right of the Church of Santa Maria, entrance is a memorial to Father Elías Valiña Sampedro. 

Affectionately known as the "Priest of O Cebreiro" or "O cura do Cebreiro" in Galician, he was born on February 2, 1929, in the village of Mundín, parish of Santa María de Lier, Sarria, Lugo, Spain. He passed away on December 11, 1989. Father Valiña was a Spanish priest, writer, and a pivotal figure in the modern resurgence of pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela, particularly since the late 20th century.

Father Valiña's career was marked by his devotion to the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. He graduated in Canon Law from the Pontifical University of Comillas in 1959 and obtained his doctorate from the Pontifical University of Salamanca in 1965.

In 1959, he became the parish priest of O Cebreiro, where he dedicated himself to restoring the town. This effort culminated in 1971 with the inauguration of the Ethnographic Museum.

One of Father Valiña's most significant contributions was the 1982 publication of the Pilgrim's Guide to Santiago's Road, commissioned by the General Secretary of Tourism. This guidebook provided invaluable information for pilgrims embarking on the Camino de Santiago. 

Furthermore, as the Coordinating Commissioner of the Camino since 1985, he was crucial in establishing numerous Spanish Jacobean associations. He served as the director of the Bulletin of the Camino de Santiago during its initial phase.

Father Valiña was renowned as a scholar of the Camino de Santiago and is mainly remembered for his efforts to mark the Camino Francés with yellow arrows. He meticulously recovered lost sections of the route, ensuring that pilgrims could navigate the path from France to Galicia with clarity and ease.

Pallozas

Pallozas are characterised by their distinctive circular or oval shape, low stone walls, and conical roofs made of thatch or straw. The walls are typically constructed using local stone, often without mortar, and may be reinforced with wooden beams or branches. The roofs are steeply pitched to shed rainwater and snow, providing insulation and protection from the elements. Inside, pallozas often feature a central hearth for cooking and heating, with living quarters arranged around it. Some pallozas also include a loft area for additional storage or sleeping space.

In recent years, there has been a growing recognition of the importance of preserving Galicia's architectural heritage, including pallozas in O Cebreiro. Visitors can visit the Ethnographical Complex and see preserved Pallozas.

PRACTICALITIES

O Cebreiro has places to stay, eat, drink, and even buy souvenirs. It also has a small grocery store (housed in a palloza) where you can buy essentials for the next day's walk to Tricastela.
1. Accommodation: O Cebreiro offers a range of accommodation options, including albergues, hostels, and hotels. Galicia provides a network of good, modern albergues run by the region's autonomous government, and the one in O Cebreiro has fantastic views. But beware: You cannot book, and preference is given to pilgrims who have walked into the village as opposed to those choosing it as a Camino starting point.
2. Transportation: Buses are limited to one a day (operated by MonBus). The village is accessible by car, and a taxi to and from Pedrafita do Cebreiro (approximately €15) is available, from where an Alsa Bus can be taken to Santiago de Compostela, Astorga, and other destinations.
3. Dining: There are many dining options, from traditional Spanish cuisine to international fare. Local grilled meat is a must-try for carnivores.
4. Facilities: Limited. to a grocery store and gift shops.

WHERE TO STAY

• Albergue Casa Campelo, O'Cebreiro s/n, +34 679 678 458
• Albergue de Peregrinos de O Cebreiro, O Cebreiro, +34 660 396 809
• Casa Rural Valiña, O Cebreiro, +34 982 367 125
• Casa Rural Venta Celta, O Cebreiro, 19, +34 667 553 006
• Hostal Mesón Antón, O Cebreiro, 15, +34 982 151 336
• Hotel O Cebreiro, O Cebreiro, 10, +34 982 367 182, http://www.hotelcebreiro.com
• Pensión Casa Carolo, O Cebreiro, 20 https://pension-casa-carolo-o-cebrero.hotelmix.es/

GALICIA

Galicia is renowned for its breathtaking natural landscapes, rolling green hills, misty forests, and dramatic coastline. But beware, there is a reason that Galicia is green. You will almost certainly need a raincoat here. Visitors to Galicia can explore the rugged cliffs and sandy beaches of the Costa da Morte, hike through the lush forests of Fragas do Eume, or wander along the serene shores of the Rías Baixas. The region's diverse geography provides ample opportunities for outdoor activities, not least the walk-in hand, the Camino de Santiago!

Galicia is steeped in history and boasts a rich cultural heritage that reflects its Celtic, Roman, and Christian influences. Visitors can explore ancient stone fortresses, medieval castles, and charming fishing villages dotted along the coast. The region is also home to numerous UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, a magnificent example of Romanesque architecture and the final destination of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route.

No visit to Galicia would be complete without sampling its delicious cuisine, renowned for its fresh seafood, hearty stews, and crisp white wines. Visitors can indulge in Galician specialities such as pulpo a la Gallego (octopus with paprika), empanadas (savoury turnovers), and caldo gallego (traditional soup). The region's coastal location also means that seafood plays a prominent role in Galician cuisine, with dishes such as percebes (gooseneck barnacles), vieiras (scallops), and mejillones (mussels) featuring prominently on menus.

Try:

• Pulpo a la Gallega (Galician-style Octopus): Perhaps the most famous Galician dish, pulpo a la Gallega features tender boiled octopus seasoned with paprika, olive oil, and coarse salt. It is typically served on a wooden platter with boiled potatoes.
• Empanadas: These savoury turnovers are a staple of Galician cuisine. They have various fillings, such as tuna, cod, or pork, encased in a flaky pastry crust. They are perfect for a quick snack or picnic on the go.
• Caldo Gallego (Galician Broth): A hearty soup made with local greens such as turnip tops or kale, potatoes, chorizo, and sometimes pork or bacon. Caldo Gallego is a comforting and nourishing dish, especially popular during the colder months.
• Pimientos de Padrón (Padrón Peppers): Small green peppers sautéed in olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt, pimientos de padrón are a popular appetizer or snack in Galicia. While most are mild, some peppers can be surprisingly spicy, adding an element of surprise to each bite.
• Mariscada (Seafood Platter): Galicia's coastal location means that seafood plays a prominent role in its cuisine. A mariscada typically consists of a variety of shellfish such as clams, mussels, shrimp, and lobster, often served with a garlicky sauce or steamed.
• Tarta de Santiago (Almond Cake): This traditional dessert hails from Santiago de Compostela and is made with ground almonds, sugar, eggs, and lemon zest. Tarta de Santiago is typically dusted with powdered sugar and adorned with the iconic cross of St. James.