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206.3km to Santiago de Compostela
23.6km to Villafranca del Bierzo
Whilst they are all around you, today, you take a welcome break from the rigours of the mountains as you walk across The Bercian Basin, also known as the Bierzo Basin (Cuenca del Bierzo). The Bercian Basin is characterised by its topography, which consists of a depression or lowland area surrounded by mountain ranges. The Cantabrian Mountains border it to the north and west, the Sierra de Ancares to the east, and the Sierra de los Telenos to the south.
The Sil River, which flows from east to west, traverses the basin, carving a path through the landscape and shaping the fertile valleys and plains that are characteristic of the region.
The Bercian Basin is known for its mild climate, with relatively temperate temperatures throughout the year. This, combined with its fertile soils and abundant water sources, makes it an ideal area for agriculture, particularly viticulture. The basin is renowned for its wine production, but you will also see chestnut, apple, plum, and other fruit trees, some of which have been grown commercially.
You leave Ponferrada by walking up the hill to the right-hand side of the castle and then briefly through the old town. You cross the Rio Sil before leaving the city through parkland and then the industrial and residential outskirts, which I am afraid you will walk through until Fuentas Nueves. A keen eye for the yellow arrow is needed!
⬇︎5.0 km (201.3km) Ponferrada to Columbrianos 🍽️ 🛏️ 🛒 🚌
⬇︎2.7km (198.6km) Columbrianos to Fuentas Nueves 🍽️ 🛏️
⬇︎2.6km (196.0km) Fuentas Nueves to Caponaraya 🍽️ 🛏️ 🛒 ➕ 🚌 🏧
Whilst you have still not entirely left the urban feel of the outskirts of Ponferadda behind, the small but busy town of Camponaraya offers various services and facilities to accommodate pilgrims.
⬇︎4.9km (191.1km) Caponaraya to Cacabelos 🍽️ 🛏️ 🛒 ➕ 🚌
As you leave Camonaraya, you will pass the Gran Bierzo winery. There is a shop/bar where you can sample their wines. For those with time, organising visits to the winery is also possible. Shortly after, there is a picnic area and a water fountain. As you walk up the hill, the modern building on the left is the Camponaraya Wine and Vine Interpretation Centre. After a steep hill, you pass over the motorway and soon find yourself walking through vineyards on the way to Cacabelos. Cacabelos has charm: narrow streets and centuries-old churches. Consider visiting The Archaeological Museum of Cacabelos, where you can learn more about the area for a modest entry fee from prehistory to the modern age. Completely free of charge and weather permitting, you can also take the chance to take a dip or refresh your feet in the Rio Cúa.
⬇︎8.4km (182.7km) Cacabelos to Villafranca del Bierzo 🍽️ 🛏️ 🛒 ➕ 🚌 🏧
Walking by the relatively quiet road, you quickly come to the small village of Pieros. Shortly after, you come to a left-hand bend in the road, where you must decide whether to go right and through the small village of Valtuille (favoured for safety and scenery) or continue by the road. The overall distances are similar, and either way, the routes rejoin, and you enter Villafranca del Bierzo on the same track.
VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO
Villafranca's history traces back to the Neolithic age when the first human settlements appeared. However, the Celtiberians left the earliest historical imprint, establishing Bergidum, later known as Bergidum Flavium, following the Roman conquest.
The Middle Ages ushered in a new chapter for the town, as it emerged as a vital rest stop along the Way of St. James pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. Mentioned in documents as early as 791, Villafranca became a beacon of hospitality for weary pilgrims, as reflected in its name, meaning "French Town," derived from the French borough that grew around a Cluniac monastery founded in 1070.
In 1486, King Ferdinand II of Aragon visited the town to create the Marquisate of Villafranca under Luis Pimentel y Pacego. The marquisate would remain in the hands of the Álvarez de Toledo family for centuries, shaping the town's socio-political landscape.
In 1619, Villafranca gained spiritual significance with the interment of Saint Lawrence of Brindisi in the Monastery of the Assumption, further cementing its status as a pilgrimage destination.
However, Villafranca's history is not without its trials and tribulations. During the Peninsular War, the town served as a battleground, enduring sackings by English troops and occupation by French forces. The scars of war left their mark, but Villafranca endured, ultimately regaining its freedom in 1810.
Highlights of Villafranca del Bierzo include the Iglesia de Santiago de Villafranca del Bierzo. You pass this Church on the left just as you walk into the town. A stunning example of Romanesque architecture, it is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Church of Santiago originated in the medieval period and was likely constructed during the 12th and 13th centuries. It contains The "Puerta del Perdón" or "Door of Pardon."
The Puerta del Perdón symbolises forgiveness and redemption for pilgrims who seek spiritual solace and pardon for their sins. It represents an opportunity for pilgrims to reflect on their journey, seek forgiveness, and experience renewal before continuing. It is believed that passing through this door granted indulgence to pilgrims, offering them spiritual benefits on their pilgrimage journey.
Another notable landmark is the Castillo de los Marqueses de (Villafranca (Castle of the Marquises of Villafranca). This fortress-like structure was a grand mansion or palace built in the 16th century. It served as the residence of the Marquises of Villafranca.
It was constructed in the Renaissance style during the 16th century as a residence for the Marquises of Villafranca, who were powerful nobles in the region.
While not a defensive fortress, like medieval castles, the Castle of the Marquises of Villafranca has a stately and imposing appearance. It features elements of Renaissance architecture, including symmetrical facades, decorative details, and a grand entrance.
Today, the Castle of the Marquises of Villafranca is privately owned and is not open to the public.
PRACTICALITIES
Villafrance del Bierzo has all the facilities you could need. However, options become more limited over the next two to three days ahead until you reach Sarria. Whilst there will be plenty of places to stay, bars, and restaurants to eat and drink in, the shops you come across will be well stocked but small.
1. Accommodation: Villafranca del Bierzo offers a range of accommodation options, including albergues, hostels and hotels.
2. Transportation: Depending on your location, you can reach Villafranca del Bierzo by bus or car. Alsa Bus is a popular option, with connections to Santiago de Compostela, Madrid Léon, and other cities.
3. Dining: There are many dining options, from traditional Spanish cuisine to international fare.
4. Facilities: You can access cash points, banks, medical facilities, pharmacies and grocery stores.
WHERE TO STAY
WINEMAKING AND THE BIERZO DENOMINACIÓN DE ORIGEN (DO)
Based in Cacabelos, The Bierzo Wine Regulatory Council (Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origen Bierzo) is the governing body responsible for overseeing and regulating the production, quality, and promotion of wines from the Bierzo region. Established in 1989, the council plays a crucial role in ensuring the integrity and authenticity of Bierzo wines, promoting the region's viticultural heritage on both national and international stages.
The council operates within the framework of the Denominación de Origen (DO) system, Spain's official classification system for wines. DO status is granted to specific regions that meet stringent criteria related to factors such as grape varieties, winemaking practices, and geographical boundaries. Bierzo was awarded DO status in 1989, recognising the region's unique terroir and the quality of its wines.
The Bierzo DO encompasses an area of approximately 3,000 square kilometres in the province of León, primarily centred around the town of Ponferrada. The region is characterised by its diverse microclimates, ranging from mountainous terrain to river valleys, contributing to the complexity and diversity of Bierzo wines.
The primary grape variety used in the production of Bierzo wines is Mencía, a red grape indigenous to the region. Other permitted red grape varieties include Alicante Bouschet, Garnacha Tintorera, and Merenzao (known locally as Bastardo). Godello is the predominant grape variety for white wines, known for its crisp acidity and aromatic profile.
The Bierzo Wine Regulatory Council establishes strict quality standards and regulations governing every aspect of wine production, from vineyard management to bottling. These standards are designed to ensure that wines bearing the Bierzo DO label meet specific quality and authenticity criteria.
In addition to regulatory functions, the council is actively promoting and marketing Bierzo wines domestically and internationally.
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