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116km to Santiago de Compostella
22.6km to Portomarín
In 2023, over 131,000 people started their Camino in Sarria. It is by far the most popular starting point for pilgrims walking the Camino Francés because it is just over 100 kilometres from Santiago de Compostela, the route's endpoint. Pilgrims who walk at least the last 100 kilometres (about 62 miles) of any Camino route are eligible to receive the Compostela, the certificate of completion. If you are starting your walk in Sarria, you will find our guide to getting there useful!
Those who have walked from León, Burgos, Saint Jean, or elsewhere will notice that the Camino undoubtedly gets busier from Sarria onwards. But with this increase in numbers comes an increase in the number of cafés, bars, and places to stay.
The terrain varies but generally includes paved and unpaved paths, forest trails, and occasional sections alongside roads. There are some moderate ascents and descents, but this stage is relatively straightforward. You will pass through the beautiful Galician countryside, with lush greenery, forests, and farmland. One notable landmark along this route is the village of Barbadelo, which features a picturesque Romanesque church, Igrexa de Santiago. You will also pass across the Belesar Reservoir via a modern bridge offering scenic views.
You leave Sarria through the old town, down a steep hill and past the cemetery. You then turn to the right, passing under the main road and over a railway line. There is a curious sign with familiar yellow arrows showing two alternative routes. The one described here turns left, where you will shortly start the first day's climb through a wood towards Vilei.
⬇︎3.7km km (112.3km) Vilei 🛏️ 🍽️
After a moderate climb, the hill flattens off, and you get some great views back towards Sarria.
⬇︎0.6km (111.7km) Barbadelo 🛏️ 🍽️
The Church of Barbadelo was once attached to a monastery. The monastery dates to the 10th century, and the current church was built in the 12th century.
⬇︎2.1km (109.6km) Rente 🛏️ 🍽️
From Rente, you will pass through a number of small villages. Some have accommodation, bars, cafés. If all else fails, you will also encounter the increasingly popular vending machines.
⬇︎6.0km (103.6km) Morgade 🛏️ 🍽️
⬇︎1.5km (102.1km) Ferreiros 🛏️ 🍽️
And just beyond that, the 100km marker. A significant point in the journey.
⬇︎0.9km (101.2km) Pena 🛏️ 🍽️
⬇︎2.7km (98.5km) Mercadoiro 🛏️ 🍽️
⬇︎3.1km (95.4km) Vilacha 🛏️ 🍽️
⬇︎2.0km (93.4km) Portomarín 🛏️ 🍽️
From Vilacha, you have a downhill walk into Portomarín. You are offered two well-signposted routes into town at a junction in the road. The one to the left is steep, the other, straight ahead, less so. You walk next to and cross a busy road before finally reaching the bridge that takes you into Portomarín. Caution crossing is needed.
Shortly after leaving Sarria you pass the 100km marker. Be sure to get two stamps per day from here.
PORTOMARÍN
With a population of around 2,100, Portomarín is situated along the banks of the Miño River. Portomarín is a busy but enjoyable stop along the Camino de Santiago and offers pilgrims almost every facility.
The origins of Portomarín trace back to Roman times when it was established adjacent to a vital Roman bridge spanning the Miño River. However, it was during the Middle Ages that Portomarín truly began to take shape, with its streets and structures bearing the marks of medieval craftsmanship and tradition.
Portomarín faced a transformative chapter in the 1960s when the Miño River was harnessed to create the expansive Belesar reservoir. This ambitious project, while bringing progress and opportunity, also necessitated sacrifice. The reservoir's waters submerged the old village of Portomarín, engulfing its streets and silencing the echoes of the past.
However, in a remarkable feat of preservation and adaptation, the town's most historic buildings were meticulously disassembled, brick by brick, and reconstructed in a new location. Among these architectural treasures stands the Church of San Juan of Portomarín, its castle-style façade a poignant reminder of the town's resilience. At the end of the summer, when water levels in the reservoir are low, the remnants of the old bridge reappear.
PRACTICALITIES
1. Accommodation: Portomarín offers a range of accommodation options for every budget, including, albergues, hostels and hotels.
2. Transportation: Portomarín is served by buses operated by MonBus (with links to Santiago de Compostela and other towns.
3. Dining: There are almost endless dining options, from traditional Spanish cuisine to international fare.
4. Facilities: All the usual facilities you would expect of a sizeable town are available, including some outdoor shops!
.WHERE TO STAY
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