STAGE 21 - LEÓN TO SAN MARTÍN DEL CAMINO

308.7km to Santiago de Compostela

25.2km to San Martín del Camino

I am going to tell it as it is! If you follow the main Camino from León to San Martín del Camino and choose not to take the more scenic detour that adds about 6km to your walk, then today is going to be a long day, primarily walking either on pavements or on tracks next to the road that will in time lead to San Martín del Camino.

And don't be fooled by the place names. They conjure images of traditional, small villages with welcoming bars and cafes. The bars and restaurants may be welcoming but small traditional villages they are not. Today, I am afraid you will have to deal with some "urban sprawl." But far better than the alternative that some choose for this stage, the bus.

Dig deep. Things do get better!

LEAVING LEÓN

I recommend picking up the familiar yellow arrows from the Cathedral, where the Camino starts its way out from the city. Eventually, it passes the Parador of San Marcos (once a pilgrim hospital) before crossing the Rio Bernesga. You will now see shops, houses, apartments, and industrial estates but little else is of great interest.

⬇︎3.9km (304.8km) Trobajo del Camino  🍽️ 🛏️ 🛒 ➕ 🚌

Now a suburb of León, Trobajo del Camino shares its name with Trobajo del Cerecedo, and Trobajuelo, both close by. Justiniano Rodríguez's research, particularly "The Jewish Quarter of the City of León," reveals an interesting history. According to Rodríguez, the genesis of the name Trobajo can be traced back to the enigmatic figure of Jacob Trepalio, a Jewish landowner who emerged in the late 10th century. It is said that Jacob Trepalio bestowed his name upon a villa, thus etching his legacy into history. With minor changes to the original Jewish name over time, Trobajo's nomenclature finds its roots in the life of a medieval Jew who once called these lands home.

The town initially flourished around one of its abundant springs, notably in the present-day Plaza de los Caserones. This spring, chosen by the Romans centuries ago as a pivotal point on their route to León, gives an idea of Trobajo's importance at the time. If you look closely enough, remnants of Roman influence can still be glimpsed in the town's streets.

• Hostal El Abuelo, C. de los Mesones, 6, +34 987 801 044, http://www.hostalelabuelo.es
• Hotel Alfageme, Plaza La Huerta, 1-2, +34 987 840 490, http://www.hotelalfageme.es

⬇︎3.5km (301.3km) La Virgen del Camino  🍽️ 🛏️ 🛒 ➕ 🚌

The story has it that in the 1500s, a shepherd had a vision of the Virgin Mary in a field. This discovery led to the construction of a chapel in her honour, eventually becoming the site of the current, modern Basilica of La Virgen del Camino, which replaced an older building in 1957.

The building is shaped like a rectangular box, with a large cement cross that is a bell tower. irachs's sculptures and bronze doors stand out.

• Albergue de Peregrinos Don Antonino y Doña Cinia, Av. Padre Eustoquio, 16, +34 987 302 800
• Hostal Central, Av. de Astorga, 85, +34 987 302 041, http://www.hostalrestaurantecentral.com
• Hostal Julio César, C. Cervantes, 6, +34 987 302 044, http://www.hostaljuliocesar.es
• Hostal Plaza, Av. de Astorga, 96, +34 987 302 019, http://www.hostalesplaza-sanfroilan.com
• Hostal San Froilán, C. Peregrino, 1, +34 987 302 019, http://www.hostalesplaza-sanfroilan.com
• Hostal Soto, Ctra. León - Astorga, km5, +34 987 802 925, http://www.hostalsoto.com
• Hotel Villapaloma, Av. de Astorga, 47, +34 987 300 990, http://www.villapaloma.es 

⬇︎4.1km (297.2km) Valverde de la Virgen 🍽️ 🛏️ 🚌 

• Albergue La Casa del Camino, Camino El Jano, 2A, +34 987 303 455, http://www.alberguelacasadelcamino.com

⬇︎1.4km (295.8km) San Miguel del Camino 🍽️  🚌 

 An excellent cabin-style cafe and shop is just to the left and off the road! A VERY welcome breakfast and coffee stop.

⬇︎7.8km (288km) Villadangos del Parmo 🍽️ 🛏️ ➕🛒 🚌   

• Albergue de Peregrinos de Villadangos del Páramo, Ctra. de León, s/n, +34 671 010 786, http://www.alberguevilladangos.es
• Hostal Alto Páramo, Ctra. León-Astorga, km 18, +34 987 390 347
• Hotel Avenida III, Ctra. León - Astorga, km 17, +34 987 39 03 11, http://www.hotelavenidaiii.com

⬇︎4.5km (283.5km) San Martín del Camino 🍽️ 🛏️ 🛒 🚌   

This has been a functional day, but you can breathe easy when reaching San Martín del Camino. You have left the urban sprawl behind. The walk to Hospital de Órbigo is pleasant and leaves the road behind. Astorga is something of a gem and a gateway to the mountains beyond.

• Albergue de Peregrinos de San Martín del Camino, Ctra. de Astorga, s/n, +34 659 283 916
• Albergue La Huella, Av. el Peregrino, 42, +34 640 846 063, http://alberguelahuella.com
• Albergue Peregrinos Santa Ana, Av. Peregrinos, 12, +34 654 111 509
• Albergue Vieira, Av. Peregrinos, 38, +34 620 671 864,  alberguevieira2023@gmail.com