STAGE 23 - Astorga to Foncebadón

259km to Santiago de Compostela

25.8km to Foncebadon

This stage takes you to Foncebadón. It is an almost continuous but gentle uphill climb to the village of Rabanal del Camino, followed by a steeper ascent to Foncebadón itself. As you climb, you leave the last of the plain behind, the views open out, and you are (weather permitting) treated to a beautiful view behind of Astorga and, beyond it, the open countryside of the Meseta. The total climb today is just over 300m or 1000ft, so it is nothing too strenuous.

The Camino Francés passes the Cathedral as it leaves Astorga, and the route through narrow streets is, as ever, well signposted. Shortly before reaching the A6, there is a small Church, the  Ecce Homo Ermita, on the left-hand side and in front of it, a garden. There, you will find several memorials to pilgrims who died on the Camino de Santiago—a place for reflection. Continue, gently ascending to...

⬇︎2.6km ( 256.4km) Valdievejas 🍽️ 

• Albergue de Peregrinos Ecce Homo, Antiguas Escuelas +34 618 44 59 10

⬇︎2.1km (254.3km) Murias de Rechivaldo 🍽️ 🛏️  

• · Albergue Casa Flor, +34 644 695 872
• · Albergue de Peregrinos de Murias de Rechivaldo, Ctra. de Santa Colomba, +34 669 067 433, http://alberguemurias.wixsite.com/home
• · Albergue Las Águedas, Camino de Santiago, 52, +34 636 067 840,www.lasaguedas.com 
• · Casa Rural La Veleta Pl. Mayor, 1 +34 616 598 133
• · Casa Rural Las Águedas +34 987 691 234 http://www.lasaguedas.com
• · Hostería Casa Flor Ctra. de Santa Colomba, 52 +34 987 603 148

⬇︎4.6km ( 249.7km) Santa Catalina de Somoza 🍽️ 🛏️

The Church of Santa Catalina dates back to the 16th century and contains a relic of St Blaise. The only town on the Camino Francés named after a female Saint.=≠

• Albergue-Casa Rural El Caminante, C. Real, 2, +34 987 691 098, http://www.elcaminante.es
• Albergue Hospedería San Blas C. Real, 11 +34 987 691 411 http://www.alberguesanblas.com
• Hotel Rural Via Avis, Calle Sol 19-2124718, +34 987 19 93 19, http://www.viaavis.com

⬇︎4.4km (245.3km) El Ganso 🍽️ 🛏️

• Apartamentos Gabino, C. Real, 9 +34 625 318 585 http://www.hostelgabino.com
• Pensión Gabino, C. Real, 56 +34 625 318 585 http://pensiongabinoelganso.wixsite.com/habitacionesrooms  

⬇︎6.6km (238.7km)  Rabanal del Camino  🍽️ 🛏️ 🛒

There is much to like about Rabanal, and after a 19.8km uphill walk from Astorga, you would be forgiven for taking in the atmosphere and breaking your journey here. Two or three small shops and several bars offer a good choice of pilgrim food. Rather than follow the main road, the Camino takes you through the narrow street of the village and leaves by this same route at the top of the village.

Rabanal is home to the Monastery of San Salvador del Monte Irago, an order of Benedictine Monks. One of the monastery's most important goals is to be present among people. So, the primary purpose of the missionary monks is to be present on the Way of St James. The monastery offers retreats and has a small shop that sells products, some made by the monks.

The associated Church is opposite the Monastery. The Iglesia de la Asunción, dedicated to the Assumption of Mary, dates to the 12th Century and is beautiful in its simplicity. Mass is held daily at 0900 (1230 on Sundays), with Vespers at 1900 and Compline and a Pilgrim Blessing at 2130. The liturgy is celebrated using Gregorian chant.

Next door is the Gaucelmo Refuge. The Confraternity of St. James runs this refuge, which has about forty beds. Voluntary donations pay for it. It usually welcomes pilgrims from 1400. It has a kitchen where you can prepare your food, and it has a fantastic garden where you can rest after a day of walking on the Way.

• Albergue de Peregrinos de Rabanal del Camino, Pl. Jerónimo Morán, s/n +34 627 147 115
• Albergue La Senda, C. Real, s/n +34 669 167 038 http://www.hostel-caminodesantiago.com Booking.com
• Albergue Nuestra Señora del Pilar, Pl. Jerónimo Morán, s/n +34 987 631 621 http://www.albergueelpilar.com
• Apartamentos Rurales Las Carballedas, Ctra. del Ganso, 1, +34 686 705 595 http://www.lascarballedas.com Booking.com
• Casona de Rabanal Oca, Plaza de Geronimo Moran Alonso 15, 24722 Rabanal del Camino 
• Hostal El Refugio, C. Real, 74, +34 987 631 592, http://www.hostalelrefugio.es 
• Hostal La Candela, Ctra. de Rabanal del Camino, s/n +34 987 691 810 http://www.hostallacandela.com Booking.com
• Hotel El Descanso de Gaia, C. Calvario, s/n, +34 606 004 470, http://www.eldescansodegaia
• Hotel Rural Casa Indie, C. Medio, 1, +34 625 470 392, http://www.casaindie.com 
• Hotel Rural La Posada de Gaspar, C. Real, 27-29, +34 987 631 629 http://www.laposadadegaspar.com Booking.com
• La Casona de Rabanal, Calle de Jeronimo Moran, 15 A, 24722 Rabanal del Camino 
• Posada El Tesín, C. Real, s/n, +34 635 527 522 http://www.posadaeltesin.com 
• Refugio Gaucelmo, C. Calvario, 4 +34 987 631 615, (Website)
• The Stone Boat, Calle Real 7, 24722, +34 652 66 05 04, http://www.thestoneboat.com

⬇︎5.5 km (233.2km) Foncebadón  🍽️ 🛏️ 🛒

As you leave Rabanal del Camino, the gradient increases, and it is quite a steep climb onto Foncebadón. The path stays away from the road but crisscrosses it regularly. Care is needed. Weather permitting, there are some beautiful views. Staying in Foncebadón allows you to reach Cruz de Ferro for sunrise, and it also gives you a head start on a steep and tiring descent from Cruz de Ferro to Molinaseca or perhaps even Ponferrada. It is perfectly manageable for most people, but I can't help but think there is a reason why there are so many roadside adverts for taxis! 

• · Albergue La Cruz de Fierro, C. Real, s/n, +34 628 257 160
• · Albergue La Posada del Druida, C. Real, s/n, +34 987 053 928 
• · Albergue Monte Irago, C. Real, s/n, +34 695 452 950
• · Albergue Parroquial Domus Dei, C. Real, s/n
• · Hostal Convento de Foncebadón, C. Real, s/n, +34 987 053 934 
• · Hostal El Trasgu de Foncebadón, C. Real, s/n, +34 987 053 877 http://eltrasgudefoncebad.wixsite.com/eltrasgu